Thursday, 16 February 2017

Hanazono and beyond

After a civilised start to the day, and a couple of warmup runs, we ski over to Hanazono from the top of the gondola - this is the fourth area which we didn't get to yesterday.  It's a bit murky on much of the mountain with cloud passing and flat light but in Hanazono area the sun is shining and the snow is bright white. This is pretty rare as Niseko is known for its snowfall not its blue sky days. But everyone is lamenting the lack of soft powder underfoot right now. Hope is high that flakes will fall any day but it is, by all accounts, the worst ski season here ever. Never mind, there is so much snow in every direction and it is lovely to ski - for the Kiwis and Aussies here (and there are a lot of Aussies) this is snow heaven despite the stats that declare poor season status. As I say, It's all relative. Shame the usual powder dumps are lacking but hopefully we will get to ski fresh powder before we leave.

Hanazono offers long cruisy yet challenging runs and a few steep black runs that cut off through the trees. Good fall lines and some grooming make for fun steep runs.  As far as learners go, the facilities and beginner areas in Hanazono are fantastic. Wide open spaces and state of the art tows.

Swapping my hire skis at the end of yesterday was a good call - these new ones are superb. They are Armada skis, not a brand I know.  I love them within a few turns and wish I'd had them yesterday.  People around me are commenting what great skis they are and this gives me extra confidence.  The hire guy had got them from out back of the shop to find me the perfect ski - these didn't come off the hire rack so I feel lucky.

Many of the chairlifts have automatic hoods that we are very glad of as we head back to Hirafu area. There is a bit of wind about but we are snug in our chair as we are transported from sunshine ... to white out!  We get off the chair in thick cloud and cannot see a thing. Begging for the sun to come - or at least for the cloud to go - I whimper a little as I head downhill. Only you don't really know if you are going down or up; disorientated and disconcerted, I try to follow Brett and others but they disappear into thick fog all too quickly. I can't see Brett, I can't even see the snow beneath my feet. People are slithering and falling as they lose their bearings, thinking up is down and down is up.  I stop and gather myself, willing the cloud to bugger off. I take off again but I seriously have no idea which way is down or where down actually goes. Brett is invisible ahead of me somewhere; but where exactly I have no idea. A group of skiers come by who seem to know where they are going despite skiing blind. I follow them and tell myself to keep up and not lose them - I am glad of the stability my great skis provide - and voila, without mishap, we are suddenly in thinner cloud and there is snow definition and we can see again. I spot Brett and because Whiteout is an ordeal that needs recovering from, as those who ski will know, we decide that food and alcohol is required right away.

We ski down to the ramen/sake bar we had called into yesterday during night skiing - called Boy-Oso. It is seething in the best possible way. I nab a table, Brett joins the food queue and soon we are scoffing the most delicious food and sipping beer and sake. The place is cheap and the food outstanding. There is a black and white resident cat who we met last night - he loves to scratch all the wooden posts - but he is understandably nowhere to be seen as the place is taken over by hungry skiers.


We eat and people watch and are soon joined at our table by two Kiwi guys, on their fifth expedition here. Of mature years and With personalities that blended eager fun, worldly nouse and mountain man mentality, with a touch of arrogance, they are fun to chat with. And then we are off.

After a few more runs, I'm feeling buggered and decide I'll head back to the hotel. Easy - ski in, drop my gear, take the lift to our room. In minutes I am chilling. Brett gets in another run and returns a short time later. We may go out night skiing later - but then again we may not ...
As it turned out we did not. In fact we did very little, the exhaustion of recent days having caught up with us. We donned our Japanese house clothes - pyjamas attire in a sexy shade of mottled brown finished with a pair of glamorous slippers.  Everyone wanders about the hotel in these outfits and Although not a highly attractive clothing option they are comfy and their message is clear - wear me and RELAX!  We lounged back and drank the bubbles that the hotel had given us for a honeymoon treat.  We then booked a private onsen, enjoyed a hot soak in the lovely mineral water for half an hour or so and then retreated back to our room. Time: 5pm.  Outside people are now night skiing and it's a pretty sight from our window.  We are too tired to contemplate going out again and promptly fall asleep.

Four hours and no dinner later I have roused myself and am writing blog and Brett is still sound asleep. It is 9.30. My eyes are heavy and I still feel full from lunch. Sleep is preferable to food.  I'll be nodding off again very soon after another great day.

And hopefully the clouds will gather overnight and divest themselves of the pretty little flakes within - actually, make that BIG flakes!!

OBSERVATION OF THE DAY No. 1:  This village is crawling with Australians. They are everywhere. Working, skiing, enjoying. Apparently the Aussies helped build the resort into what it is today and they come here in droves. They also own a lot of real estate. We met two couples who come for three months every year to ski and have done since  2003. They also spend three months here in summer - a paradise for golfers and those into the outdoors and nature. Lucky couples!

OBSERVATION OF THE DAY No. 2: There are some seriously good looking people around, of all nationalities. It's been a while since I saw so many handsome males in one place. Slope to slope, lift to lift, bar to bar - good looking smiley athletic dudes are everywhere. As observed over many years, there is something about skiers - that easy vibe, casual outdoor aesthetic and happy demeanour, young and old alike. It seems to go with this sport where meeting great people from all over the world is simple and happiness is the main emotion. A ski resort brings people together effortlessly and is without doubt one of the best places in the world to meet new people and make new friends.





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